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Stainless steel

Stainless steel is widely used in watches due to its durability and corrosion resistance. There are some variants that differ in quality and properties. The hardness is often indicated in HV (Hardness Vickers).

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This hardness value is calculated based on the force applied and the surface area of the indentation. The higher the HV number, the harder the material is, indicating greater resistance to deformation and scratching.

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Different stainless steel grades

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316L is the most common for watches, offering corrosion resistance, particularly in saltwater. It is used by most brands. It has a Vickers hardness of around 150-200 HV.

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Then there is 904L stainless steel which is a high-end alloy used primarily by Rolex. It’s more corrosion-resistant and durable than 316L but harder to machine. This has a Vickers hardness of approximately 200-250 HV.

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Another variant is 440C, known for its hardness and wear resistance, though less corrosion-resistant. It’s often used in watch components that require high strength. It has with a Vickers hardness ranging from 550-700 HV.

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Cheaper stainless steel and steel for parts

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Next is 304, a cost-effective option with good workability and decent corrosion resistance, typically found in budget watches. For the inside of a watch there is 17-4 PH which is a strong, precipitation-hardened alloy. It is used in high-performance watch components like screws and movement parts.

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A less common due to its magnetic properties and lower corrosion resistance is 430, but it offers good formability.

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Lastly we mention carbonitrided stainless steel, although there are more variants. This carbonitrided treated steel variant is hardened and more scratch-resistant, used in high-end watches for durability.

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The hardest stainless steel we have seen so far is introduced by Hanhart in 2024,  and called HD12. Which is carbon diffused into stainless steel in a surface hardening process, and then topped off with a transparent hard coating (PVD). The result is a Vickers hardness of 1,200.

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Just as a reference, the Vickers hardness of diamond, the hardest natural material on Earth, is 7,000 to 10,000 HV. Which is also indicated as 70 GPa to 100 GPa (Gigapascals).

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Compare case materials on the Hardness Vickers scale (from hard to hardest):

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Carbon 20-50 HV
Platinum 40 HV (950 platinum: 80-135 HV)
Silver 70-90 HV
Bronze 60-150 HV (100-200 HV treated)
Aluminium 120-200 HV
Gold 120-200 HV (18k or 14k)
Palladium 150-200 HV
White gold 150-250 HV
Stainless steel 150-250 HV (special 1200 HV)
Titanium 150-200 HV (grade 2) / 300-400 HV (grade 5)
Ceramic 1200-1400 HV (1500-2000 for alumina)
Sapphire 2000-2300 HV

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Stainless steel watches

Hanhart Preventor9 S Limited Production ref. 752.710
Hanhart

Hanhart Preventor9 S Limited Production

by YWH Team 29 April 2024
by YWH Team

The Hanhart Preventor9 S Limited Production is a limited addition to the Pioneer Preventor9 series inspired by an 1950s Hanhart

Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa ref. PAM01565
Panerai

Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa

by YWH Team 29 April 2024
by YWH Team

The Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa is another model to underline the brand’s partnership with the Italian sailboat racing team Luna Rossa

Eberhard & Co. Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée ref. 31081
Eberhard & Co.

Eberhard & Co. Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée

by YWH Team 27 April 2024
by YWH Team

This Eberhard & Co. Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée is the limited edition of the new 1887 with flyback chronograph

Eberhard & Co. Chronographe 1887 Automatique ref. 31082
Eberhard & Co.

Eberhard & Co. Chronographe 1887 Automatique

by YWH Team 27 April 2024
by YWH Team

The Eberhard & Co. Chronographe 1887 Automatique is one of two new 1887 models and this one has an automatic movement

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire Stainless Steel ref. Q604848J
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire Stainless Steel

by YWH Team 26 April 2024
by YWH Team

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire Stainless Steel is a new iteration of the Duometre series with an opaline blue dial

Rolex GMT-Master II Grey-Black ref. 126710GRNR
Rolex

Rolex GMT-Master II Grey-Black

by YWH Team 25 April 2024
by YWH Team

The Rolex GMT-Master II Grey-Black is the 2024 iteration of the renewed model with second time zone function, originally launched in 1955

Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green ref. 168629-3001
Chopard

Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green

by YWH Team 24 April 2024
by YWH Team

The Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green is a sector-type basic dress watch in stainless steel that follows the current fashionable colors

Tudor Black Bay Monochrome ref. M7941A1A0NU
Tudor

Tudor Black Bay Monochrome

by YWH Team 21 April 2024
by YWH Team

The Tudor Black Bay Monochrome is another new edition in the Black Bay series, this time with a monochromatic color scheme

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph ref. 03.9500.3600
Zenith

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph

by YWH Team 21 April 2024
by YWH Team

The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph is presented in three colors, and it is the first chronograph in the new-ish Defy Skyline collection

Tissot Seastar 1000 Wilson WNBA Quartz ref. T120.410.17.011.00
Tissot

Tissot Seastar 1000 Wilson WNBA Quartz

by YWH Team 20 April 2024
by YWH Team

The Tissot Seastar 1000 Wilson WNBA Quartz is the little sister of the Tissot Seastar 1000 Wilson WNBA Automatic, at half the price

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