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Stainless steel

Stainless steel is widely used in watches due to its durability and corrosion resistance. There are some variants that differ in quality and properties. The hardness is often indicated in HV (Hardness Vickers).

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This hardness value is calculated based on the force applied and the surface area of the indentation. The higher the HV number, the harder the material is, indicating greater resistance to deformation and scratching.

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Different stainless steel grades

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316L is the most common for watches, offering corrosion resistance, particularly in saltwater. It is used by most brands. It has a Vickers hardness of around 150-200 HV.

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Then there is 904L stainless steel which is a high-end alloy used primarily by Rolex. It’s more corrosion-resistant and durable than 316L but harder to machine. This has a Vickers hardness of approximately 200-250 HV.

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Another variant is 440C, known for its hardness and wear resistance, though less corrosion-resistant. It’s often used in watch components that require high strength. It has with a Vickers hardness ranging from 550-700 HV.

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Cheaper stainless steel and steel for parts

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Next is 304, a cost-effective option with good workability and decent corrosion resistance, typically found in budget watches. For the inside of a watch there is 17-4 PH which is a strong, precipitation-hardened alloy. It is used in high-performance watch components like screws and movement parts.

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A less common due to its magnetic properties and lower corrosion resistance is 430, but it offers good formability.

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Lastly we mention carbonitrided stainless steel, although there are more variants. This carbonitrided treated steel variant is hardened and more scratch-resistant, used in high-end watches for durability.

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The hardest stainless steel we have seen so far is introduced by Hanhart in 2024,  and called HD12. Which is carbon diffused into stainless steel in a surface hardening process, and then topped off with a transparent hard coating (PVD). The result is a Vickers hardness of 1,200.

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Just as a reference, the Vickers hardness of diamond, the hardest natural material on Earth, is 7,000 to 10,000 HV. Which is also indicated as 70 GPa to 100 GPa (Gigapascals).

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Compare case materials on the Hardness Vickers scale (from hard to hardest):

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Carbon 20-50 HV
Platinum 40 HV (950 platinum: 80-135 HV)
Silver 70-90 HV
Bronze 60-150 HV (100-200 HV treated)
Aluminium 120-200 HV
Gold 120-200 HV (18k or 14k)
Palladium 150-200 HV
White gold 150-250 HV
Stainless steel 150-250 HV (special 1200 HV)
Titanium 150-200 HV (grade 2) / 300-400 HV (grade 5)
Ceramic 1200-1400 HV (1500-2000 for alumina)
Sapphire 2000-2300 HV

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Stainless steel watches

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 ref. CBU2010.FT6267
TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963

by YWH Team 14 June 2024
by YWH Team

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 is for Porsche and Le Mans fans as it underlines the connection between the brands

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar ref. Q114
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

by YWH Team 12 June 2024
by YWH Team

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar is part of the refreshment this super flat collection recently got

Breitling Navitimer Automatic GMT 41 ref. A32310 / R32310
Breitling

Breitling Navitimer Automatic GMT 41

by YWH Team 11 June 2024
by YWH Team

The Breitling Navitimer Automatic GMT 41 celebrates 140 years of Breitling commemorating their long existence in the world of watchmaking

Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41 ref. A17329 / U17329 / R17329
Breitling

Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41

by YWH Team 11 June 2024
by YWH Team

140 years of Breitling is celebrated this year, with this Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41, among other models, like a GMT and a Cosmonaute

Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Chronometer Celebration ref. 00.10804
Carl F. Bucherer

Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Chronometer Celebration

by YWH Team 10 June 2024
by YWH Team

Last year’s Celebration model range is expanded with the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Chronometer Celebration on leather straps

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Double Hairspring ref. 6814-1200
H. Moser & Cie.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Double Hairspring

by YWH Team 9 June 2024
by YWH Team

For those who want to see every tiny move of their watch the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Double Hairspring is a great option

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Bi-Color ref. 310.20.42.50
Omega

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Bi-Color

by YWH Team 8 June 2024
by YWH Team

For all fans of the Speedmaster, here is the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Bi-Color. Two models in steel with gold touches

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date GMT ref. WBP511x
TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date GMT (2024)

by YWH Team 6 June 2024
by YWH Team

Together with a new date-only version TAG releases this new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date GMT, a serious diver

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date ref. WBP511x
TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date (2024)

by YWH Team 6 June 2024
by YWH Team

Five new versions of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date, the sporty TAG that shows a serious level of waterproofness

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Holstein Edition 2024 ref. 01 400 7794 4784
Oris

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Hölstein Edition 2024

by YWH Team 5 June 2024
by YWH Team

Oris celebrates its 120th anniversary with this Oris Divers Sixty-Five Hölstein Edition 2024, named after the place where they started in 1904

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